Friday, 31 July 2015

Home again

After a good night's sleep post two very long flights home I can bring this particular journey to a close. We left our Barcelona hotel seeing that there had been rain overnight and high humidity, so our timing was excellent. Once at the airport we waited until the Emirates check-in was open, and sadly learnt that due to over booking there was no way we could change our allocated seating which had me in an aisle seat and Jo in a middle seat next to a window seat. We both hate middle seats.  Our check in fellow was very apologetic but it didn't change the outcome. So we waited (along with the New Zealand couple) for our flight to Dubai, filling the time with a coffee and chicken burger from McDonalds.  Can't tell you the last time I ate at a fast food outlet, not because it is a national security secret, I simply can't remember when it was as it would have been years ago. Anyway, that was all that was on offer once we went through the passport control area and as the wifi wouldn't connect we couldn't even get onto our computers!!! Thank goodness for my kindle (am currently reading my way through David Baldacci books).
Anyway finally on the plane and so began our uneventful but squishy 8 hour flight, however it was late leaving due to a broken luggage carrier of some sort, and then as we were late arriving into Dubai it meant that our time of arrival coincided with my next flight's boarding time! Jo was due to leave 10 minutes after me for Sydney. So much for our 2 hours in Dubai airport for last minute duty free shopping. So with no time for anything, we found the airport man who was gathering up all the passengers booked for both the Adelaide and Sydney flights and ran us through the airport to our respective boarding gates. I really do mean that he ran us there too! If I hadn't been so tired it would have been hilarious.  There were about 20 of us and as the airport was so crowded with people of all ages and sizes pulling luggage or dragging children or pushing trolleys or pushers and not in any hurry, meant that we had to manoeuvre our way around them and through them to keep up with the airport fellow.  We got to gate 15 and he told us this was for the Sydney bound passengers which was showing 'Final Call' so with a very rushed goodbye that was the last I saw of Jo as we then continued on towards the far end of the terminal for my gate.  Thankfully the Adelaide flight was late departing about 25 minutes so I even had 5 minutes prior to boarding from Gate 23.  Another lady who was near me was complaining loudly that she had a heart condition and shouldn't get stressed, at which point I told her that under those circumstances she should never fly internationally! She didn't see the funny side of it, but I did... This is the same woman who had kept carrying on about 'when will she be able to to her duty free shopping?' at which point I told her "In Adelaide". I won't mention the company logo that was on her top as I saw her go through the gate first with the Business Class, but I won't be going to that Australian company any time soon for a home loan.
And then it was time for the great unwashed to board. I initially sat in the wrong seat but quickly moved one forward to my middle section aisle seat to find myself sitting next to a middle Eastern Muslim man who when I sat down next to him, told me that he would be changing seats with his wife because she didn't speak English and would be jealous.  I simply said, Okay.  Not sure if she was going to be jealous because he is Muslim and I'm just one of those infidel Eurpoean women; or because even in my very tired and dishevelled state she could see what a seductress I was!!! The plane was really full so there was no ability to change seats anywhere else. I then ended up sitting with a young (at least I'm guessing she was) woman in a full burkha and her young daughter (under 1). Things went downhill from then on.
She did her praying in the seat next to me while her husband took his mat and went up the back of the plane - and all this was happening as we were told to take our seats ready for take off. We take off after she finally belted the kid into the seat between her and hubby and so begins the 12 hours flight home that felt like it took 48!!!! The child had a few screaming fits during the flight and got itself so distressed at one stage that it threw up. I was ready to go out in sympathy at that stage but held it together somehow.  The Dutch fellow sitting in the aisle opposite me didn't help matters by reaching across and tapping me on the arm each time there was a crying fit, so that I could see him rolling his eyes and shaking his head - if this was attempt at feeling my pain, it wasn't working!!! Watching this poor woman try and eat and drink under her black face veil was a comedy if it hadn't been so sad. She has the barest slits open over her eyes and could never get a cup back far enough to her mouth to get a decent drink. Much of her food went untouched, I'm sure because it was so difficult for her to get it into her mouth. it's probably very good for serious dieting but not much else - and I don't care how politically incorrect that sounds.
However the flight itself was smooth and we all arrived safe and somewhat unhinged at about 8 p.m. local time. Got through Immigration quickly enough and even remembered to collect my bottles of scotch I had pre-ordered. Then the long wait for the suitcase which I was very pleased to see eventually come onto the conveyor belt.  Straight through Customs as I had nothing to declare, other than I was glad to be home...
The ever delightful Princess Shiny Bright (who has since gained the reputation of also being Florence Nightingale to my mother who had a stint in hospital during my holiday - but that's another story for another time) was there waiting for me and delivered me safely home whereupon I put myself straight to bed where I stayed for the next 12 hours.
A couple of loads of washing and emptying of all contents within the suitcase have followed and our Grand Tour of Spain and Portugal is totally at its end.  Please don't put your passports back into cold storage just yet though as we have an upcoming trip to Perth in September and then Thailand in October to get under our collective travel belts before the end of the year.
Keep safe dear armchair travellers until we do it all over again...

Tuesday, 28 July 2015

Last day in Barcelona

We went for dinner last night at a restaurant recommended by Denise for the paella but I was really disappointed with it, having eaten much nicer earlier in our trip. Thankfully the pitcher of a Sangria helped. Anyway we filled the evening by sitting at our beach side restaurant and made our way back to the hotel a couple for hours later. The beach front and big boardwalk were heaving with people. Thankfully our hotel was quiet even though we are only one block back from the beach.
After breakfast we were on the coach with our local guide Amara to show us around the city. It was a bit humid but no rain and 27 degrees forecast. We headed for the Eixample district for a visit inside Antonio Gaudi's extraordinary masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia (Holy Family) church. They have been building it for 123 years and have tentatively put a completion date at 2026 but the locals aren't holding their collective breath, nor do they really care as it has been under construction for all of their life times and are non-fussed as to it ever being finished. I was über impressed with the interior. I saw the exterior 8 years ago and thought it quite an eye sore, but have a different appreciation for it this time around. Not sure I will ever be back again to check on its progress though. We then drive along to Passeig de Gracia which has different buildings that are quite beautiful and extraordinary. Gaudi's influence is clearly seen in some of them. The wrought iron street lamps are quite lovely against the flamboyant modernist buildings.  We are dropped at the start of the Rambles and have time to wander in one of Europe's largest and most famous fresh food markets, La Boqueria, but as we had no interest in looking at lots of fresh produce for 40 minutes we found a cafe, that Richard and Donna were already at, and had a cupo vino blanco with them. The sun had gone down over the yardarm somewhere and it was almost midday! The afternoon was then at our leisure. We elected not to go back on the coach to the hotel as I really wanted to find something very 'Spanish' that would be a bit special and remind me of this holiday, however my efforts were in vain as absolutely nothing jumped out at me. I was soo not buying t shirts, magnets, key rings or football regalia. So instead we found a big square that had lots of eating places and we both had salads and wine for our lunch and then proceeded to walk back to our hotel along the beachfront, which took an hour so we well and truly walked off our lunch.
We have our finale Celebration Dinner tonight where we are being taken to a special restaurant which should be nice. Some of our group have early starts in the morning so it will be the last occasion when our group is all together. Thankfully we don't get picked up till 11.30 am so I am desperately
hoping for a lie in in the morning. I shall worry about packing the suitcase then.
Jo had a bottle of red that she wanted to share with Richard and they had a bottle of white chilled that Donna and I could share, so after showers and a freshen up, we went to their room and had our last happy hour together. They head off at 7.30 in the morning and I'm no where nearly good enough a friend to offer to get up at that time to see them off when I don't have to. So a very enjoyable happy hour spent with them, and I hope we really do keep in touch because they were our kind of people. Then we all trundled off to our celebration dinner with everyone in fine spirits. A very nice dinner at
a waterfront restaurant and all too soon time to head back to the hotel. Fond farewells to all, including Rui our driver and then up to our room. Time for bed and the last night of our Grand Adventure in
Spain and Portugal.
Reasonable night's sleep and ups out 8. Breakfast and farewells to two other couples who are staying on a couple of days, then back to the room to pack. Have bought very little so no problems with closing the suitcase or worrying about overweight... apart from the excess baggage in my hips and stomach! Even have time to update the blog, and because you have been such good and faithful armchair followers I'll add some photos.
The first is a view of our unexpected stop in Navarre, second is of me and Ernest Hemingway in Pamplona. The next two are of Barcelona and the last three of Gaudi's church. The photos don't do any of them justice, especially the one of me and Ernie!!!








Monday, 27 July 2015

Barcelona here we come

Have no idea why yesterday's post had a repeat photo at the end of it but as the addition of photos has been such a constant battle I have abandoned the prospect of trying to remove it as the margins go silly and gaps start to appear in the middle of sentences. Technology really is wonderful, but it can be a pain in the posterior when it chooses to be. And speaking of posteriors...
Sadly we are clearly at the tail end of our tour as Denise has gotten us to confirm our flight departure times so that she can arrange airport transfers. Bugga... This smaller group has given us a much better opportunity of spending time together and I am very pleased to confirm that I haven't had to even come close to voting any one off the island. You'd have heard about it by now if that had been the case! I asked Ali who is a 13 year old Canadian girl travelling with her auntie, what her favourite part of the trip was so far (they were on the first part of the tour with us too) and she wasn't sure. I know how she feels. There have been so many lovely places that each have something unique about them. We haven't been overloaded with cathedrals or castles. And each one of them has been very different also. The countryside is full of contrasts and because the weather has been glorious we have seen it at its best. Would I come here again, probably not, because what I've seen has been great, just don't see the point of seeing it all a second time. Would I recommend the trip, then definitely yes.
We have gotten to know Richard and Donna from Pennsylvania (both retired teachers). Poor Richard has been sick with a chest infection from day 1 but has kept battling on. I told him not to be a sooky la la when I first met him and he thought that was a great name to be called so kept repeating it until he finally got the pronunciation right. Once we got back to the hotel this afternoon we opted not to go out again, so while Jo had a snooze I did the blog update and then read. About 6.30 we decided to go downstairs for a drink and Richard and Donna were already in the bar so we sat with them and had a drink and we all then decided to stay in the lobby bar for dinner as none of us liked the menu for the main restaurant. It was a case of chicken burgers all round. Then time for bed and a bit more reading before lights out.
Much better night's sleep once I finally got to sleep. Up and out at 8 to do the long hike to Barcelona. It is about 13 degrees but fine. We had been driving about an hour when Rui our driver made an unscheduled stop at a look at Mirador de Azpirotz in Navarra. Simply breathtaking view. Denise hadn't previously stopped there and I think she was as taken by its beauty as we were.
About two hours into our drive we get to Pamplona. It is now about 23 degrees and the sun is out so very pleasant. We are treated to churros and chocolate (this time with the really thick melted chocolate) at the cafe bar made famous by Ernest Hemingway. We then wander along the famous Estafeta Street where they do the running of the Bulls. Thankfully that was over and done with a couple of weeks ago as I would want no part of it. The main plaza is very large and there are only about two or three other people in it at this hour of a Sunday morning. The only other people we've seen in any number are the street cleaners and the local police!
Back on the coach and we have another couple of hours drive until our lunch break at a highway service station. I had a Caesar salad and amazed myself that I was able to explain to the cashier what dressing I wanted on it, plus order uno cafe con leche. I even asked for the milk to be caliente. I'm not quite ready to take on Denise's tour guide job just yet, but if she is struck down with laryngitis in the next 48 hours I am available to step in! It is now 23 degrees and still warming up. We have driven
through the Rioja wine producing region, but also vast farming areas that are very dry. Such continuing contrasts of landscapes. Mountains one minute and plains the next. Nothing but green, then dry pastures. About an hour out of Barcelona we stop for 15 minutes just to stretch our legs and then we are in the heart of the city. Denise has been fabulous at breaking up the long day in the coach for us. She has kept feeding us sweets out of her special lolly tin and we've even had chocolate truffles (another of one of her special 'flourishes' that she does nearly every day.) We even had a quiz about places we've been to on the tour. Jo and I only managed 6 out of ten but we got full marks for counting in Spanish and how to say thankyou in Basque. I couldn't  remember how many regions there are in Spain (14 if you really want to know) and when we had to guess how many kilometres Rui had driven on this tour we were way out from the correct 2,400. Mind you I reckon I should have gotten a mark for knowing where Queen Isabella was crowned. Surely the answer was "on her head" but Denise wasn't having any if it.  So at about 5 pm and  now 30 degrees we arrive in Barcelona. There are people everywhere. This really is a bustling vibrant place. We have decided not to do the optional tour later to Gaudi Park (can't remember how to say it in Spanish). I'm sure the others will enjoy it but the tour doesn't start until 6.30 and will go for about two hours. I hope to have had my dinner and be having a few glasses of wine by then. It is nice to finally have a hotel room with tea and coffe making facilities, even if there isn't a convenient power switch to plug the jug into!

Saturday, 25 July 2015

San Sebastian

It is proving a real trial to have sufficient wifi access and download speed to add photos, so you are getting these Guggenheim ones a day late. (Art???? My great aunt Fanny!!!!)










I had a shocking night's attempt at sleep so was not a happy little Vegemite when the alarm went off for us to get up, however I dragged my droopy arse out of bed and was on the coach at 8.30 with the rest of our group. It is a bit overcast so have popped in a shower jacket for just in case. 21degrees  though so not at all cold. We've decided to do the optional tour to Barritz and St Jean dE Luz, which is 40 km over the border into France. Have the passport with me just in case, but generally there is no stopping or checking of passports any more at the borders. Biarritz is very much a summer holiday resort, but very hilly. Great views from the lighthouse and enough time to wander along the main plaza to sample the French patisseries and cafe au lait. Apparently Biarritz was the summer residence of Napoleon III (he was the little short dumpy Napolean's nephew).


Then we head to St Jean de Luz described in my itinerary as the real jewel of the Basque Country. It is a quaint little  place with lots of lanes and alleys jam packed with eating places and shops. The beach
front is much  more family friendly than Biarritz which was very much a surfing beach.

We have a look inside an old church. Here is where Louis XIV (I remember him from history lessons as 'The Sun King) married the Spanish princess Infanta Maria Teresa. It isn't a very big church by comparison to others we have seen, nor does it have all the gold ornate stuff. What makes it very different is that there are two extra narrow floors or open balconies along the walls which were added to allow for greater numbers. The church is still used for regular mass and was quite pretty in its own under stated way. 

We then had 2 hours to ourselves to wander around. Jo had spotted a cafe style store that had different quiches on display in their window so we retraced our steps to that store, deciphered the French menu and promptly sat ourselves down inside and ordered our quiche, salad and wine. It was really good, and very filling. As it was now just after 1 o'clock we still had an hour to have a look around, however the French are clearly insistent on having their own siesta time so the vast majority of shops had either closed or were just about to, and then not reopen until at least 3 pm so it became a futile effort to see anything in a store that might have taken our fancy. We spent the last half hour sitting in the centre square people watching. Then back on the coach for our return to San Sebastián. Denise treated us all to a macaron which was very, very sweet, but as it was a local delicacy it was a case of "when in Rome" or more correctly, when in France...

Onto Bilbao, Costa Vasca and San Sebastian

Our hotel really is fabulous. I decide to take a walk down along the beachfront which was a good idea going along it until I had the all uphill walk back to the hotel but is was a good hour's exercise and I got some great photos. Time for a shower and sit down. Because we are both pooped we decide to order in room service for dinner and after sitting out on our balcony enjoying the view we have our dinner and decide we are due an early night as it is already 9.30. Has been a lovely day. The northern area of Spain is markedly different from Madrid and surrounds. Dare I say, better??? Looking forward to a sleep in in the morning as we don't have to leave until 9. Just hope the amplified singing we are hearing from somewhere along the beach at some sort of festival doesn't go on all night.
Awoke to another perfect morning and after breakfast off we go again in 22 degrees and blue skies with 27 forecast. An hour and a half later we arrive at Bilbao and are dropped near the Guggenheim museum. It certainly is a spectacular building, but I may be a bit biased because it doesn't have nearly the same pretty charm of the Sydney opera house. Anyway we decide to spend our free morning going into the museum to check out the modern art. That's 15 euro that would have been better spent on a couple of bottles de vino blanco and a good feed of Tapas!!! What numpty thought a huge recreation of balloon toys are art? And how does doing plaster casts of  Italian art pieces and sticking a shiny bright blue ball on their stomach or shoulders pas itself off as any form of acceptable talent? Jeff Koons really duped people thinking his copies of famous Italian masters' ideas are any form of art. I call it plagiarism. The guy didn't create a single thing that someone else hasn't already created. He just collaged them or made them bigger in bright shiny colours. Reading the scree in my museum guide book had me scratching my head in bewilderment.
"Koons has a unique style that allows seemingly contradictory concepts to coexist harmoniously in his work... Koon's oeuvre (that's exactly how it's spelt in the book) is a statement of self -affirmation."
There was a whole room dedicated to his Made in Heaven works which are paintings, a sculpture and
glass figurines depicting him and his girlfriend having sex in different poses. Talk about self-affirmation, all right. How damned arrogant....
AND ... since when has crappy criminal graffiti made it into a thinking person's art collection? Jean-Michael Basquiat died at 27 but not before doing  graffiti in a lot of New York. If he put that shit up on private property in South Australia he would have been arrested. I've seen better finger painting or crayon stick figures done by 4 year olds who can spell better too.
And a few last words on Koons, anyone want a Five feet high blow up figure of the green Hulk with a pipe organ sticking out its head and key boards dotted along its side?  Oh and it does have a pedal attached to its left foot for  good measure.What a croc of pretentious arty farty smarmy barmy horse manure. The huge floral puppy figure out the front was much cleverer. Okay my tirade is over now.
I can tick the box to say that I've been to a Guggenheim museum, but I've equally confirmed that modern art has no place in my headspace!
Had time for a much needed vino blanco and Pixtos which is Basque for tapas. Now that we are in
Basque country  we need to try and decipher menus. The locals speak Basque as their first language and 'normal' Spanish as a second language. Had time for a walk around part of the city and then back on the coach for a really pretty drive along part of Costa Vasca which is dotted with small coastal fishing villages. As we come into Zumaia which is at the mouth of the Urola we see 'El raton' which is a mouse shaped rock. (It reminds me of a similar view of when we see the bluff at Victor Harbour.) We stop for a half hour at one of the little fishing villages long enough for a cuppa or vino. Care to guess which I had? Then about 45 minutes more and we are in San Sebastián where we have two nights. The hotel is fairly new and very modern so quite minimalist re furniture and fixtures, but the AC works and the beds look comfortable so we will be fine. Pity that there isn't any balcony or any sort of view.
We set off in the coach again after checking into our rooms. Esther is our local travel guide. We are taken to the top of a hill where there are fantastic views of the Bay of Biscayne, lots of beach goers along Le Conch and we can even see as far as the French coastline. It is currently 30 degrees and do warming up as the day has gone on. We drive around the city which is bustling with lots of people, probably because of the jazz festival here right now. We have an hour long walk through the old city and Jo and I will probably come back here tomorrow afternoon when we finish our morning tour. Then it is about 7pm so time for dinner and we are taken to a local restaurant where we toast our trip with champagne and have a lovely three course meal with wines included, naturally. Lots of friendly banter and laughs, then time to head back in the coach to head back to our hotel. Jo and I entertained the group with a couple of ABBA songs on our return trip. I did suggest that Rui our driver might want to drive once more around the block as we hadn't quite finished one song, but he mustn't have understood as he had the bus parked and door opened in a matter of seconds... Has been a good day and I'm looking forward to tomorrow when we head across the border into France. I'm also looking forward to an early night when it is lights out before 11 pm  and we don't leave in the morning until 8.30 so hopefully will  get a bit of asleep in. Night, night.


Friday, 24 July 2015

Photos

Anyone for chorizos? Local shop fronts in Oveido.


Village of Santillana del Mar and church




Basillica  in Covadonga 


 Roman bridge in Cangas de Onis




This is the front of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Santiago actually translates into St James.


This is a typical scene of countryside along the Costa Verde.


This is a view from our impromptu lighthouse stop. The photo does not do it justice. Think along the lines of the Cliffs of Moher and you will get the idea.




This is how you drink Sidre (cider)


7th century church of St Julian in Oviedo.

Altar piece in nave of the cathedral in Oveido.







Santillana del Mar and on to Santander

Had a nice dinner at the hotel restaurant and made our way back to our room in the hope that the room would have cooled down but no such luck. So down I head to reception and see the same lass who had come up to our room. She promptly gave me keys for a different room across the hall. With memories of my previous midnight dash to change rooms in Vancouver on another holidaysome time ago (all thanks to Viv who was soooo not my favourite as a result) we moved into our new cooler room and put ourselves to bed. Didn't get a good nights sleep but no one ever died from one night's lost sleep so like a brave little soldier, I soldier on...
Bags out at 7 and on the road again at 8. We had only been driving less than 30 minutes when we were stopped by a local police officer who pulled our coach over in the outer lane of a roundabout... Has he never heard of OH&S??? Numpty... Anyway he then proceeds to go through Rui's driving logs for the last month. We all sit very politely  and quietly in the coach, waiting for another vehicle to either run in the back of us or at least side swipe us, and about 30 minutes later we set off again, with Rui's paper work all up to scratch, although he was not at all happy about being stopped, simply because the local gestapo can... I was sitting near the front of the bus, and as we set off I told him that we could have taken that copper, and that we had his back! We all gave him a big clap for being such a good driver. Underway again we are driving in quite a bit of low cloud and it is about 20 degrees. We visit the holy cave of Covadonga which is a shrine to Pelayo who achieved the first Christian victory against the Moors in 722. Supposedly someone had a vision from the Virgin Mary in the cave, telling them that they would have victory over the Moors so a lovely shrine has been created in the cave where Mass is heard at least once every day, and on the other side of the hill a beautiful old basilica has been built.
Now before any of the whiny "we want photos" brigade start chanting their mantra, please understand that my access to wifi is often very limited and downloading a single photo to post on this blog is currently taking up to 10 minutes per photo and then it is really hard to position the photo in the correct part of the blog because the iPad won't let me scroll to any nominated spot. That being said I will have a few photos ready for my next post.
Right, where was I? Back on the coach and a short drive back into Cangas de Onis which is in the foothills of the Picos de Europa (Picos means spear) to see a unique and very pretty Romanesque bridge. The clouds had lifted and it is now about 23 and just perfect. We have just enough time for some quick souvenir shopping and only enough time for a cake and half a cup of coffee until we are back on the coach again to Santillana del Mar which is often claimed to be the most beautiful village in Spain. It certainly is quit beautiful with a very medieval feel with all cobblestone streets and very old buildings that tend to have little balconies with flower pots. The hydrangeas are absolutely magnificent everywhere we look, and every conceivable colour, often in the same patch. The hibiscus grow really well in the north too, and geraniums are also very popular.
We pick one of the many outdoor restaurants for our lunch. This one has a set 3 course menu with bread and a glass of water or wine for 12.50 euros so sounds good value. I had the prawn spaghetti for my entree and it was a similar sized serving to that of anything you get at Amalia's for any of you who have been fortunate enough to be treated to her ravioli, lasagne or gnocchi. We had already been given a big basket of fresh crusty bread and when our two wine glasses were put on the table we expected the waiter to pour a glass of wine for each of us, but instead he left the whole bottle! Then our 2nd course arrived and I had a huge piece of Hake with lettuce, grated carrot, onion and mayonnaise. I was stuffed by the end of it and couldn't eat it all. Then they brought around the dessert menu for our choice but neither of us could manage another mouthful, however a lovely cup of coffee was ordered. Thinking that our Spanish had let us down and in fact we hadn't made it clear we wanted to order from the set menu, we were expecting much more than our 12.5, but that is exactly what it was when I asked for Le carte. Talk about value for money, and no wonder the locals all go for a siesta in the afternoon! We had a bit more of a wander through the village and then time for back on the bus. It was now about 25 degrees. Because poor Rene had been having such a bad day by being stopped by the local constabulary and then had to drive through this last town 3 times before he could find an appropriate spot to drop us off and at one stage an obnoxious peasant in a deck chair refused to let him stop in a public car park just to let us out, I felt very sorry for him so bought him a block of locally made chocolate. He was quite surprised when I gave it to him when I got on the
coach, but it brought a smile to his face, so the gesture had the intended outcome. More lovely countryside through the green hills and on to the beach resort of Santander which will be our home for one night. The hotel is absolutely gorgeous and is aptly named Real (Royal) hotel. We have fantastic views of the beach and coastline from our first floor balcony. As it is a festival to St James, there are many sideshows and events all along the beachfront. We have about a 15 minute walk towards the Casino which is the prettiest beach front walk or about a 35minute walk in the other direction to the old town, I'm a bit old town-ed out so will be opting for the beachfront. Life is very, very good right now.

Thursday, 23 July 2015

Along the Costa Verde to Oviedo

Had a lovely swim in the indoor swimming pool as the outdoor one was a bit chilly. Dried ourselves in the glorious sunshine on the grass by the outdoor pool and feeling very refreshed decided to walk back to the cathedral, up that steep incline to find somewhere for dinner. Wandered about for a while and eventually decided to go back to Casino Restaurante where we had lunch. I had a lovely picante pizza and although Jo attempted to order a bottle of wine we only got one glass each. We our waiter came back to check on us Jo asked for the rest of the bottle but that totally confused the poor man who thought we were ordering a new bottle now. Problem sorted when we simply asked for dos cupo de vino blanco. I'm not ready to take on a job as an interpreter yet but if you want to ask for a menu and then work out what is on the menu and how much it costs, then I can assist. Can also order coffee (black or with milk) and can even tell people that I am hungry or thirsty, which is most of the time!
So after dinner we ambled back to our room and it was time for bed. This is my absolute favourite hotel so far and saw my second good night sleep in a row.
Waking up to the alarm we had to have bags out by 7.30 and commenced our drive to Oviedo passing very scenic countryside. The morning started out very foggy and 20 degrees. Already we are seeing very different countryside from the south which was very drive. Here the rolling hills are all green and we can often see the coast. This green coast of Asturias is surely one of Spain's most beautiful. It is named after the colour of the sea. There are often pine and eucalyptus trees along the shore line. There certainly aren't swimming beaches at it is rugged coastline. We stopped at a delightful little spot along the way for coffee and the almond tart which is a specialty of the region. As were we doing so well for time we take a slight detour to a lighthouse on a cliff which gave us spectacular views. We got into Oviedo about 1.30 and we are staying at an old hotel called Hotel De La Reconquista. Apparently Oviedo is a principality so they have a Princess  who is next in line to the throne (same sort of set up as exists to create the title Prince of Wales). Can't remember how far back it goes but when it became a principality, royalty stayed at this hotel so they have gone overboard
with crowns and HR on every inanimate object. Consequently I feel right at home...
We head out to lunch in the cafeteria of their equivalent of Harrods - El Inglais. I had a lovely Sicilian pasta and a glass of Sangria, which was very nice indeed. Then we had a bit of a look around the store but even with all the summer sales, it was expensive. Back to the hotel to meet our local guide Rene (male version) who fancies himself as a comedian tour guide. We visited a 9th century church which was built when Oveida was the capital of Christian Spain. It was absolutely amazing in the workmanship and artistry of the time. Couldn't take any pictures inside but will attempt to upload an external shot later. The church of St Julian has many 1000 year old wall paintings which are simply incredible. The whole church took 400 years to complete. We then visited the cathedral in the Plaza Alfonso II square. Amazing main nave that had various scenes depicting Jesus's life. They were all carved in wood and then painted, much of it in gold leaf. We had a wander through the old town which has something like 40 small bars in one street and most of them don't open until at least 10 at night and then stay open until about 3.30 am, which is way past this little black duck's bed time. We were then given a tasting of northern Spain's drink of choice which is Cider but it isn't like any cider
I've ever drunk. It is meant to be poured from a 1 1/2 metres drop into the side of the glass.
Thankfully we were in an outdoor courtyard because much of it goes on the ground. I was selected to try the pouring and told the guide that I was 'busy' but he persisted so I eventually got my two fingers
worth of cider into the cup and then shook off my wet sneakers and apologised to those nearby that I
had splashed during the pouring. A very light sprinkle of rain mist occurred in the last five minutes of our walk and it wasn't even enough to make my hair go curly. Back to the hotel and we have a bit of
time before dinner at the hotel. We get into our room and it is like a sauna! What the ???? The temperature is showing 26.3. We kept pushing the button to try and get the temperature down but no success so in despair turned the AC off. I went downstairs to reception and explained our predicament. The lass told me that she would send a technician to sort the problem. By the time I got upstairs and given Jo a bottle opener for our happy hour using the HR crown engraved champagne glasses, our non English speaking technician arrives. We try to explain the problem but all he understands is that these two stupid women haven't turned on the AC! No amount of our sign language and his speaking more Spanish at us is working (remember, I can order from a menu and
ask how much things cost, so air conditioners, too f***ing hot and turn the temperature down are way outside my bailiwick. Maybe that will be covered in my next online lesson...) so, we get the receptionist to come to our room and interpret for us.  After much pushing of buttons we are told that it is an old building and is a bit humid but eventually will cool down. The lass isn't any more convinced by our air conditioning expert than we are so tells us that if it doesn't cool down we can change rooms. Jo has already opened  a bottle de vino blanco, so I'm not going anywhere. Gracias to our AC technician, Gracias to our receptionist, shut the door and happy hour begins...in a  sauna...
A lovely day so far.

Wednesday, 22 July 2015

Santiago

We spent a couple of hours in our room just chilling out...the bottle of vino blanco from Rueda helped, and the it was time for pre dinner drinks with the new group. When we got down stairs nearly all the group were watching a big screen TV of golf. Some numpty asked me whether I followed golf; and I proceeded to let them have it about  what I thought of a group of grown ups hitting a tightly bound ball of rubber bands long distances across grass, sand and water into a hole that has a flag stuck in it and no sooner finally getting the rubber band ball in the hole to whisk it out without even leaving it in there long enough to take a photo and then doing it all over again for at least 9-18 times. And then.... Lying about how handicapped you are. I would have thought that in this day and age of PC the last thing you should be doing is taking the mickey out of people with disabilities!!! I just don't get it.... But after my explanation to all and sundry, that seemed to set the tone of the evening.
As luck, providence or happenstance would have it, Jo and I ended up in the middle of the long table for dinner and without deliberately meaning to, we ended up holding court for both ends of the table. We had our little group in stitches. As Jo says, we really were the life of the party. Everyone of them want to be in our gang, but I've already warned Richard, the American retired teacher from Pennsylvania that he needs to be careful that I don't vote him off the island. There's another fellow who sat opposite me that I have no idea what his name is, that I've already had to do two 'hurtful's to for laughing at me while I've been telling a story, so he is treading a fine line. So, all in all a good night. Food was okay and the smaller group really makes a huge difference. Back to our room to enjoy heading off for nigh-nighs without having to set an alarm for the morning...bliss!

Am feeling very human again after a good night's sleep. Up at 8 at which time I made a cuppa in the George Clooney coffee machine in our room. This is heaven... Leisurely breakfast at 9.30 and then we decided to walk to the St James cathedral ( where all the pilgrims who end their walk come) and wander around the old town. It was about a 15 minute walk from our fabulous hotel and the old city is very much up hill and down dale so we are certainly getting our exercise today. We found a great shoe store that was having a sale so as my money was burning a hole in my pocket I bought myself a pair of blue sandals. Jo liked them that much that she bought herself a negros (black) pair and other pair to boot! More wandering around and then we decided it was lunch time so picked one of the outdoor seating restaurants (there are dozens to choose from) and I had a lovely bowl of moussaka plus the obligatory cupo de vino blanco. We watched the world go by for a while and then hit the shops again. Lots of jewellery stores but most is in silver which doesn't float my boat. We still had an hour to spare before we were due to meet with the rest of the group for a tour of the cathedral so went back to a pastry shop we had passed earlier to buy ourselves some afternoon tea for later. That duly done we headed back to the cathedral square, met our group who had all gone to visit a fishing village in the morning, and did our cathedral tour.
This cathedral houses the remains of St James. He didn't die in Santiago but came to Spain to preach Christianity and met his demise when he lost his head, literally. Some 500 years later they found his remains in Santiago and built the cathedral around them. Hence the start of the legend of the pilgrims walk. It was quite interesting but I'd had enough walking around for one day so was pleased when the tour ended and we made our way back to our room for another George Clooney and my chocolate donut. As it was now 5 pm and we had the rest of the night free, it was also time for a swim. Had good intentions of doing the faffing about and trying to add photos, but the pool beckons!

Tuesday, 21 July 2015

Madrid to Santiago

Spent an hour doing the blog update... With photos... And then got a taxi back to our previous hotel to meet S & M who have two extra days in Madrid before they head off to France. Shared a bottle of vino blanco with them and then went to a little cafe style restaurant that they had found earlier in the day that was a short walk from the hotel. It was after 7pm and we should have picked up more quickly that we were probably in for another Fawlty Towers experience when we walked in and we were the only customers. However the very obliging bar man quickly changed the music to English speaking and next we were being serenaded by Manfred Mann right through to Phil Collins. I was having a real throw back to the 60s and 70s for a while.
As he spoke no English and I've gotten behind in my online Spanish lessons,  Jo wasn't able to make him understand that we wanted to see a wine list. However, I was able to eventually ask for a bottle of white wine and as they only had one type, the first tasting from the bottle was wasted on us as there weren't any alternatives. Yet on we went with the dinner ordering process. (Should have listened better to those alarm bells in my head). Jo decided to ask for paella but because I have at least learnt how to count to ten in Spanish I realized that Manuel was telling us that paella is only available if two order it. Not sure why there was only a single price on the menu, but no point arguing with the fellow as he was trying so hard. When the dear chap poured our wine for us he fussed over opening the bottle and then put a wine aerator on the bottle. Didn't have the heart to tell him he was wasting his time on a dry white wine but he was enjoying his attempt at silver service. Then when the dear chap was pouring the wine into Jo's glass at too high a height from the glass, much of it went onto the table cloth. Oh, forgot to tell you that he only put the table cloth on the table after we sat down and we all had to help smooth out the edges, only to see three black cigarette burns across the centre of the cloth. What is it they say about 'A' for effort???
He then brought out some appetisers that we didn't order but it was too problematic to send them back. I think they were the display items that had been sitting on the glass shelf for a while, but we
were determined to stay the distance at this place, especially as S was feeling so embarrassed about picking it based on when they had gone for a drink late afternoon and there were a lot of people there. However upon further questioning we establish that no one was actually eating there, just drinking spirits!!! The wine was doing its job and Manuel kept fussing over the pouring and messing about with the little towel he put over the ice bucket. Next minute there is much tapping on the window from the street and in walks another fellow who we surmise is either the manager or at least Manuel's boss. Don't know why he had to tap on the window, but he just did. Then we totally lost it when finally another patron walked in.... With a little dog. S bursts out "Well that settles it. Now every man and his dog is here!!!!!" I think I might have even had a little bit of wee in my pants, I laughed so much...
Shortly after a fellow walks in, out of breath and in track pants and t shirt and heads straight for the
kitchen. I think that the chef had now arrived... Because S had ordered a salad entree we have to wait
until she had eaten that before we get our food. Eventually a large pan of paella comes to the table for
Jo and M to share. I tuck into my seafood salad and giggle over my lagostinos which are meant to be king prawns. They have been sliced as thinly as smoked salmon, but it was all edible and I am being optimistic that we are not all in for a bout of salmonella. Anyway S & M share a creme caramel dessert and we are done. We have been joined in the restaurant by this stage with two guys who came in together and sit at the bar drinking. One of the guys has long black hair pulled back in a pony tail and another with a shaved head wearing a baseball cap. They are known to Manuel so appear to be regulars. I tell S & M that they probably need to leave to give Jo and I a chance to get lucky, but another person comes into the bar covered in tattoos and sits with them... And it was a woman so we might have dodged a bullet there.
As we are about to gather up our gear to leave, the manager comes over to us to ask if we want coffee and when we say no he offers us a liqueur on the house. He then brings over a tray with four shot
glasses filled to the brim with a clear bright yellow liquid which I think he calls something like herbius. Anyway it has a slight aniseed taste and burns going down the gullet so we are now well and truly done for the night. We pay our bill and as we walk out the door the music suddenly changes back into Spanish songs. What an adventure.. Fond farewells to S&M as we leave them at their hotel and we get a taxi back to ours. Time for bed.
Didn't get a good night sleep which was really annoying as it is such a lovely hotel, however bags out at7 and on the coach at 8 as we head off toward Santiago which is a lond days driving. At about 10 we stop at Rueda which is a lovely little wine making region. Jo is in her element at the wine tasting so while she is discussing what side of the hill the grapes were grown and how many hours of sunlight each day and what are the grape names (I mean readers... Who gives each of their grapes a name for goodness sake... ) I go downstairs and order a  cafe latte. Jo eventually comes downstairs
with her arms full of wines. Should have seen the jaws drop on our new group of travellers. I just told
them all, that this is why I am enjoying travelling with her and I had never met her before this trip. Some people will believe any old tripe you tell them.
Back on the coach after the box of wines are safely seat belted in behind us and another couple of
hours driving past pretty countryside until we have a freeway restaurant stop for lunch,. During this drive Denise, who is turning out to be the consummate tour director, puts the movie 'The Way' on the coach DVD player for us. It tells the story of a man played by Martin Sheen taking his son's ashes on the El Cimino to Santiago pilgrims' walk of some 800 km, and we see some of the places we have been and are about to go to.  Then after lunch we are back on the road again for another 2 hours until we reach Santiago where we will be for 2 nights. Our hotel is lovely and we have done or washing and already set up our Chinese laundry in the bathroom. Time to break open one of Jo's bottles of vino blanco as we relax and put our feet up prior to meeting up with group for dinner at the hotel. We have opted not to do the optional tour in the morning so will have the day free until 3 pm. I am soooo looking forward to a lie in. This truly is the good life.


Monday, 20 July 2015

Photos

Okay you whiny armchair travellers who have been submitting complaints (maybe next time try using polite requests...) via email and comments for more photos, I am now giving up valuable drinking time to submit myself to your pressure. I am such a slave to my adoring travel blog fans... By the way we have 49 people following the blog which I find quite amazing as I don't know that many people, however I digress from the purpose at hand.
As we travelled throughout Spain we would see these huge billboards of a black bull. You can see them for miles. A previous alcohol company had the bull as its logo so these were erected all over the countryside with various advertising for their beverages. Spain enacted a law that alcohol was no loner to be advertised so the owners of the private land where the billboards had been erected purchased their 'bull' and painted over the advertising. Now locals use it like a game of 'spotto' to see how many they pass on their country rides. There were about 15 on our journey but I reckon I stopped counting at 9.


Gorgeous figures on balcony of a souvenir shop opposite the Prado Museum in Madrid.

Belem tower

Western most top of EEC countries

Cascais beach










Madrid and Segovia

We are in a very modern hotel, but it has mirrors, glass and coloured lights in the oddest places so really is too clever for itself by half. Anyway could have done with a lot more sleep but up and out we were by 8.15 to get a taxi with the other four people who were continuing on with the northern Spain part of the tour. Confusion reigned supreme because half of us were sure that Denise was booking the two taxis for us and the other half thought we had to book them ourselves. Turned out that the latter group were correct so two taxis dutifully then ordered and arrived and we all set off in them to our new hotel which is apparently 4 kms away. I am in the first taxi with Ian and Helen from NZ. Our driver speaks no English but takes off when advised of the hotel we are to go to. Eventually he pulls over and attempts to get the 2nd driver to overtake us as he is now lost... The 2nd driver is not happy. Words are exchanged. GPS finally consulted and away we go again in the exact opposite direction we had been travelling. We finally get to our new hotel and are met by Denise. That is 15 minutes of my life I am never going to get back...Thankfully our rooms are ready so we head to our room and are delighted by the space, grandeur and comfort. Just enough time for a quick freshen up and then downstairs to meet the rest of our new group and away we go.
As it is early Sunday morning the streets have virtually no traffic so we have a very good view of the city again. We stop at one of the many parks to see the Don Quixote statue. Weather is a delightful 23 and glorious.

I feel sorry for poor Pancho but he seems happy enough here to tag along. We then head to the Prado Museum which is beautifully set out. There is a marble piece by Michelangelo and you can over indulge in Goya, Rubens, El Greco, Velasquez and even that nut job Picasso.

We had enough time left for a quick coffee then back on the coach towards Segovia where we have opted for the optional tour. Maria is our guide, same lady as yesterday. She is very knowledgable and has a good sense of humour. It is a good hour drive and pretty countryside along the way. Segovia is a fortified city that dates to medieval times. As we approach it we see a spectacular Aquaduct that is 1 1/2 km long and 30 metres high. It is an amazing piece of engineering with absolutely no mortar between any of the huge blocks..




 Wandering through the narrow lanes we then get to a large square. I think they all tend to be called Plaza Mayor but don't quote me on that. Jo and I find yet another great outdoor restaurant for our lunch. We have a lovely view of the square and a beautiful cathedral.

We then meet up with the group again and make our way to the magnificent Castle that was Walt Disney's inspiration for Cinderellla's castle. 

Inside this 14th century palace are various weaponry and armoury of the Spanish medieval era along with tapestries and paintings... All quite wonderful. Panoramic views of the countryside and all too soon time to head back to the coach for our drive back to Madrid as it is already 4 o'clock.

Sunday, 19 July 2015

Madrid

Have been meaning to tell you that I bought myself a new watch in Sintra. Not that I really wanted a new watch but it became necessary because when we were flying from Dubai to Madrid, prior to landing I needed to turn my watch back 2 hours. Slight problem. When I went to pull out the little knob to adjust the time, I pulled the damn thing all the way out which meant that I couldn't change the time. So I had been deducting 2 hours every time I looked at my watch. Then when we went into Portugal I needed to deduct 3 hours... It was doing my head in but the only watches we were seeing were all in jewellery stores and very expensive. As I wasn't actually planning on living in Dubai just so I could tell the correct time, I managed to find a tacky watch that at least I can read the face on, and the time adjuster knob hadn't fallen out. So now I drive Jo nuts telling her the time .... Constantly...(one of life's little gems).
Back to the blog though. Had a great nights sleep so good in fact that the alarm woke me so I am now raring to go. Breakfast and bags out by 8 for our departure back to Madrid. We actually had grey skies late yesterday afternoon and half a dozen drops of rain but lovely blue skies again now and a forecast of 32 for Madrid. The countryside is ever changing and very pretty. Fields of sunflowers next to corn, next to pasture land then huge areas of different planted trees, including eucalyptus. Aaahh this is holidaying at its best.
We then had a stop in Avila where we were treated to churros and hot chocolate. However I'd much prefer a Balfours chocolate donut or a Kitchener bun any day. Had time to wander around this beautiful little city. It has a fortress wall from aeons ago but you would swear that it was finished last week. It is in pristine condition. I have attempted to download photos onto the iPad but it has run out of room so I am now working out how to just do a couple of photos at a time and as my normal blog time is very limited I can't be bothered trying towork out how you do that now...
So, Avila is absolutely charming and a very special visit that I wasn't expecting. Found a great little souvenir shop that had lots of goodies in it so I got a bit carried away. Some of you may be lucky enough to end up on the receiving end of my gift shopping, however don't hold out on it as I have such great taste that I may end up keeping all these little finds for myself!!!!
Back on the coach and on to Madrid. When we arrived neat the palace we met Denise who is going to be our tour director for our northern Spain tour. Apparently there are only going to be 16 on our tour so that is a lovely small group. She seems okay so time will tell. We then go to have lunch and found yet another outdoor restaurant and this time,no sooner were we seated when the other 4 who are continuing on with the tour came and sat with us. Had a lovely sandwich and a glass of Chardy. Time to meet our next guide for a tour of the palace which was very interesting, then back on the coach to our next hotel. Time for the last of the scotch and a quick freshen up before we head downstairs to meet Shelley and Mark for pre dinner drinks. Then at 6.30 all on the coach to our farewell dinner which was just fabulous. So much food, good company and good wine. Lots of photos taken and attempts at hugging, but I don't do hugging so much nodding of the head and then walking away... Back at the hotel more attempts at hugging and cheek kissing so well and truly time for me to head for my room.

Saturday, 18 July 2015

Salamanca

Time to leave Lisbon, which was way too soon as I'd have liked more time to properly have a look at this city. However the coach won't wait for me so off we head at 8 am. We have a full days travel ahead to return to Spain. We stop at the Holy Fatima which supposedly was where Mary appeared to 3 shepherd children in 1917 during five consecutive months on the 13th of each month and told them each a secret. Simon, our guide was a bit vague about it all, but I'm para phrasing his version of the story. Apparently the first secret was showing one of the children what hell would look like and the 2nd foretold  World War 2. The 3rd secret hadn't been released yet as (and this is where I got really confused) because the 3rd child is still alive. And it supposedly has been written down and locked away somewhere really safe within the church. So I'm guessing that when the last of these three kids dues they may open the secret then???? There was also something about the local mayor kidnapping the children as he didn't want their story to get out. And Simon's story trailed off at that point but I figured the children must have been released because their story certainly got out! However... My care factor wasn't real high while hearing the story and visiting the supposed site was equally underwhelming even though there is a huge basilica built there and if you are truly a believer you can go on the path at the top of the open courtyard all the way to the steps of the basilica on your knees, and they provide knee pads if you want them! You can light candles and take part in communion too if you so desire. Instead we headed for coffee and a Portugese tart (of the egg custard variety) at a nearby cafe amongst all the souvenir shops that various sized Virgin Mary statues, rosaries and other catholic symbols 'stuff'. Apologies to my dear Catholic armchair travellers as I'm sure it may have had more positive impact and meaning  to you, but was totally wasted on me. Then back on the coach until we stopped about midday at a very average highway rest stop restaurant then back on the coach again with one more short roadside service station stop (where I bought a small bottle of Moscatello because I really liked the bottle. It had plastic castanets attached to it so I will be able to practice me flamenco dancing when I get home... And after tasting the contents last night my dancing may look more like an epileptic fit!!!!) then we arrived at Salamanca. Just enough time to try the Moscatello and decide to tip the remaining contents down the sink and then for a walk down the main mall into a bus square which truly resembled St Marks square in Venice. Chose one of the numerous outdoor cafes for our dinner and after a couple of Sangrias I settled in the chicken with Russian salad. Had no idea what to expect but was pleasantly surprised to get thinly grilled chicken breast with lettuce topped with a mayonnaise, tuna and a slice of tomato and chips. The service was quite poor so the only tip these guys were going to get was to tell them to look both ways before they cross the road... A pleasant walk back to our hotel and then Shelley and Mark came to our room for a drink of a dessert wine that Jo had previously bought. I declined as that sweet stuff, irrespective of what side of the hill the grapes were grown on, makes my teeth feel furry. Good company and good chat but time for bed.
Tomorrow is the last night with this tour group. Can't remember if I mentioned when we started this tour, that we found out that it in fact 2 tours back to back, however only 6 of us from the 39 are doing the extended tour which covers northern Spain. So tomorrow morning when everyone else departs the hotel fir the airport we have to check out by 8.30 to transfer to another hotel to start with the next group. Sounds like a lot of faffing about to me as we will miss the welcome reception for the new tour tomorrow night because we will be having our farewell dinner with the current group. Will let you know how that pans out.

Friday, 17 July 2015

Cascais and Sintra

After our morning tour of Lisbon, we have taken the optional tour to Sintra. Dulcie remains our guide and continues to be extremely informative but never in a boring rote learning way. We head along the coastal road towards Cascais which likes to think of itself as a glamorous resort resembling Monte Carlo. The weather is perfect and as it is school holidays there are many holiday programmes for kids ( but nothing that is getting in our way) just that there are heaps of people along the beaches, however most are laying in the sun rather than being in the water so I just hope that they have remembered to slip, slop and slap. As it is a hilltop area there are very pretty views and as it is a tourist Mecca, there are ample hotels, restaurants and shops. We head to an outdoor eatery and ordered the grilled chicken which turns out to be half a chicken with chips, so we tucked into that along with the piri piri sauce. Had a nice wander about and then back on the coach to Sintra. Quick photo stop on the way to see the western most tip of the EEC ( not counting the UK). Sintra is atop a hill and again lovely views of the area. We had a tour through the summer palace and were amazed that one of the rooms had a ceiling that was covered in paintings of magpies(supposedly ordered by the king as this was the room that the ladies in waiting used and they were terrible gossips so he named them magpies. I thought magpies were native to Australia so had better look that up when I get home to work out how they knew about magpies in the 18th century in Portugal...
In free time we wandered up hill and down dale amongst the shops and restaurants. The area is known for its cork products. They have fabulous handbags made of cork, but quite expensive. The mosaic tiles are really big here and in Spain too. The rooster is a symbol of good luck so there are lots of souvenirs with bright colourful roosters on them. Time to get back on the coach and head for home. Back at our hotel about 5ish and just in time for scotch a clock.
We then headed downstairs to meet Shelley and Mark to share a bottle wine in the hotel lobby bar prior to heading off towards liberation Street and the main square where we found a great little outdoor restaurant and had our dinner. My grilled chicken breast and mushroom risotto was yummy. Weather remains perfect and there is a slight breeze so it is probably in the low 20s. Have I already mentioned how perfect it is? A wander back to our hotel and it's time for bed.
Obrigado...
You may have noticed dear armchair traveller that I have added a few photos in an earlier post, however these take ages to do so I will continue to attempt to appease the 'visualisers' amongst you who crave the picture painting 1000 words bit every now and then, but also need to keep up to date with the actual travel itinerary blog. So in other words, suck it up princess.

Lisbon Day 2

Had a lovely dinner last night with Shelley and Mark at a quaint downtown restaurant that we stumbled on, or more accurately a lad in the street led us to. Big meals and good wine at a good price.


Back to our hotel about 10 pm and straight to bed where I had a good nights sleep at last. Then up and out again next morning at 8.15 for a guided tour led by the delightful Dulcie who prove to be a never ending font of all knowledge Portugese.  We drove through Lowrr Town to the Terreiro do Paco which is a big square surrounded by lovely old buildings. We then went to the Belem quarter from where the sailing ships set forth to discover unknown lands. Just loved the Monument to Discoveries.



We then visited a fabulous old patisserie that has managed to hold on to their secret recipe of Portugal's finest pastry for over 100 years. We got to have two of the famous 'pasties de belem' which were an egg custard in a puff pastry and very yummy. Apparently  the nuns initially came up with the recipe as they needed to find something to do with all the egg yolks as they used the egg white for stiffening their habit. So the story goes, there are now only 3 people who have the secret recipe and they must never travel together... Should they all die at the same time!!!
Forgot to mention that we also saw the ancient Belem tower which is all that is left of a fortress originally set in the middle of the river but now left high and dry on the riverbank.
We then visited Jeronimo's church but had to wait a while until all the hoopla was over re the President of Mozambique visiting the church just before we got there. There must have been almost 100 guards on horseback and lots of military types and secret service all over the place. Made for a good spectacle and we didn't mind the wait. The church had a very medieval feel and the architecture was different again from any other church we have already seen. It was a great morning and we then continued on with an optional tour to Cascais and Sintra.


Photos from Alhambra

Alhambra palace, simply magnificent.


Photos do not do the palace justice.

So many 'wow' moments every where we looked.







Thursday, 16 July 2015

Lisbon

Had a lovely evening last night at an original Tapas bar which has been in the one family for 5 generations. Sat with Shelley and Mark who are lovely travel companions, albeit from Melbourne, although in Shelley's defence she is originally an Adelaide girl! Then after dinner which consisted of much more food than I could eat, plus the essential Sangria pre dinner and then a couple of vino blancos with dinner, we then had an open carriage ride through the city back to our hotel which was a lovely way to end the evening. Back to our room at about 10 pm and then lights out.
Bags out at 7.30 for an 8.30 departure after breakfast. It is only going to be about 32 today in Lisbon, which is our destination but we have a long drive ahead of us. This will be the coolest day we've had since leaving home last week. The heat isn't stopping us from doing anything, but it is very tiring, especially on top of full on days touring.
Pretty drive through the countryside where our first stop is a visit to a large ham processing plant where the black Iberian pigs are bred especially for the famous Spanish hams. We did a tour through the plant which explained the very lengthy process they use for curing their jamon Iberian, which we call prosciutto. They kill between 200 and 300 pigs per day when the pigs are about 18 months old. The entire process can take about 3 years and then the legs are sold for something like 500 Euros each. If you are thinking of buying a leg then make sure you get a hind one as apparently they have the better meat and less fat. I really could have done without that visit and I think it was the first time it had been included, but I've been there and done that now.
Back on the coach and past ever changing scenery as we cross the border into Portugal. There are fields of sunflowers, then oak trees, cork trees and rice fields. Lunch at one of those horrible highway service rest stops where the staff don't speak English but with my very limited 3 lessons of on line Spanish and lots of pointing I ordered my chicken salad sandwich only to find that their idea of salad is only lettuce and a flat roll constitutes bread. However it was edible and I fared better than others. Poor Jo attempted to order the same as me and ended up with a ham, egg and salad baguette! Poor thing doesn't eat meat so we did some pulling out of non essentials as we ate. Back on the coach and finally into Lisbon to our hotel about 4 pm having turned back our clocks yet another hour when crossing the border. We've elected not to go to the optional dinner and folk music night so instead are resting up after a bit more hand washing and creating a Chinese laundry in the bathroom, along with the obligatory scotch (and for Gary's information, No we didn't have to resort to sucking spilled scotch out of our undies, there is still a bit left in the bottle) we will soon head downstairs to meet with Shelley and Mark before we hit the streets of Lisbon to find somewhere for dinner.
It has been another long day on the road so an early night will be in order. We are off to visit Sintra tomorrow in the morning after a walking tour of the city. 32 degrees forecast... Just perfect.