Merzouga to Skoura - 8 May

Our objective today is to get to Skoura which is a small city nestled on a gorgeous palmgrove and located near Ouarzazate which was once a stopping point for African traders. Once we are settled back into the car with Samad and Ahmed, Ahmed asks us how our night in the camp was. Bad move on is part. Clearly he's never been to law school. You dont ask a question if you dont already know the answer! He got both barrels and supposedly had no idea there hadn't even been a fan or water provided. Once we expended our energy complaining of how our expectations had not been met in any way, shape or form, Ahmed then tells us the itinerary for the day with first stop to a fossil museum. I politely tell him that we arent interested in fossils, gem stones or the like so he accepts that we can give the museum a miss. On the road again, we stop at a water aqueduct which truly was a masterpiece of engineering of the time to get underground water to the surface.

We stopped at a small but really interesting private museum in a Ksat near Tingherir which had exihibits showcasing local, art, culture and history.

It had been funded by an NGO to assist locals, predominantly women, who were able to sell their hand embroidered scarves, etc in the tiny shop. (VJR, there is a present for you that will eventually make its way to Hedley). As we were leaving the museum we walked past a room where we could hear children's voices. Ahmed knocked on the door and we were welcomed into a little classroom where some of the children who live in the Ksat. One little tike was out the front reciting something in a very loud voice. She barely took a breath and was totally unperturbed by our entrance. When she had finished her loud rendition she promptly went back to her seat while the next child did his recitation. I asked Julie who she thought the little girl reminded her of, and she said me, which was exactly what I thought too! We were then invited to sit with the children and it was such a lovely experience. All too soon we needed to be on our way and as we got up to leave, each child wanted to high five us. Moments like these melt your heart.

And then we were back on the road again. So now it is lots of more changing scenery and sights. Great views of the double oasises or is it oases?

We wandered through the Todra Gorges, seeing a nomad family who are the epitome of subsistence living. A little tot (one of the nomad children) was so excited that he had found a tiny fish while mum was filling up water from the river in the gorge.

We then continue through the southern slopes of the High Atlas range, following the Dades Vallet as we pass by flourishing crops, irrigation channels and palm trees. We are following the Thousand Kasbahs route, seeing 100 year old Kasbahs amongst the palm groves. It really is sad to see so many if the traditional adobe dwellings abandoned and being left to disintegrate. But it is understandable that people want newer, more modern himes that require less maintenance. Only problem is that the newer dwellings dont have heating and cooling which was a big benefit of their adobe homes. We stop for lunch at a delightfil little restaurant that any one else may have driven straight past. Once again we were offered the traditional 3 courses and this time opted for the pumpkin soup and chicken with couscous. We didn't touch the big plate of watermelon. We were also offered a pre soup dish of cooked vermicelli with cinnamon sprinkled on top. I couldn't believe how good that was. And we both wolfed down so much that we couldn't eat all the main meal which delicious!

Totally sated we are now headed for Skoura where will be spending twoghts at L'Ma Lodge. It became apparent that neither Samad or Ahmed had been there before as they got lost twice, even though Julie and I had seen the signs...

We are finally back where we started 2 attempts ago, and follow a lead car to our lodge. It is on a 1km narrow, winding track in what can best be described as the secluded back blocks and this us where Ahmed leaves us, saying he'll pick us up in two days time! We then walk through the walled doorway and find ourselves in a beaufiful building that is the main lounges, kitchen and indoor dining for the lodge. We are then walked through the extensive gardens to our accommodation block and into our room (the Atlas room) which has a storage and change room, toilet, shower and vanity basin area. Upstairs are our twin beds. It is a delight to see an air conditioner which is promptly turned on for us. However there is only 1 chair in e changeroom area and the winding stairs are going to test us through the night for bathroom visitsand our hangover injuries from camel riding! It is still 100% from ladt night. We settle into our toom and as it is about 5ish we decide it is happy hour as on our guided tour through the grounds to our building we have been told meal timesm and that any drinks are available at any time. Off we head to the indoor lounge area and our affable fellow provides us with a drinks menu that consists of soft drinks, fruit juices and hot drinks. I ask fir the alcohol menu and hesays that they don't have any alcohol.I adk if they are saying that they cant serve alcohol and he is saying no. Julie is saying that he told us we could get any drinks of beer and wine. He then challenges her and asks who said that and were there any witnesses? Just as we are resigned to thinking that we are having 2 more forced alcohol free days, he laughs and produces the wine menu! We promptly ordered a bottle wine! He then asks for our passports to book us in. We hand over the passports and he returns shortly with our eine and a host of delightful nibbles (love the salted olives). He then returns with our passports and gives me mine. He gies to give Julie's back but says there is a probkem with her registration. She says that she jniws she no longer looks like her oassport photo as she niw has pink hair. He says that she is going to have to produce other evidence of who she is. We both take a breath, and then start laughing as he teasing the heck out of her! We then enjoy a couple of hours with our wine and nibbles before dinner which is the best chicken tangine yet! The home made banana icecream was delish too.

When we had finished dinner, Vanessa the Belgian owner who lives upstairs in the main buildig with her French husband and 2 teenage children who she home schools, came and chatted with us. She was a delight and so interesting. A perfect hostess. Her passion is gardening and it certainly shows in all the perfect special garden settings. Everywhere you look is one more little hideaway of cushions or tables and chairs, or hammocks. There is a delightful tent just for children. The pool area is secluded and well set out. We will have plenty to keep us entertained tomorrow. Time for bed and looking forward to day of doing nothing tomorrow.