Fes - 6 May

Reasonable night's sleep but awake early. Will need to get the air conditioner looked at, as it was hot during the night and neither of us were prepared to take our jammies off in order to cool down. LOL! Breakfast was okay, although the best thing about it really was the lovely room - very French Rennaissance. Julie asked for a poached egg which was well beyond the English skills of the poor chap making omelettes. Eventually one well boiled egg was put on a dinner plate in front of her. Full credit to the girl, cos she ate it. We then headed out with Ahmed and Samad for a full day in Fes. First stop was a wander around Mellah, the old Jewish quarter of Fes El Jedid (New Fes) built by the Merinid Dynasty in the 13th century.

Traders were just commencing for the day. One fellow had a trolley full of river snails for sale. Apparently they make a good soup but I don't plan on ever being that hungry. The fellow was smoking hasish and as Julie approached, blew smoke towards her. I'm prepared to use that as an excuse for what happened next, when Julie identified a white dog as a goat! In the photo, look under Ahmed's arm and see the white dog/goat (you may need to enlarge it)

She really is struggling with her identification and knowledge of animals. Yesterday she mistook a dromedary for a camel. It's a common mistake but had us all in fits of laughter in the car at the time, with me trying to get Julie to pronounce dromedary correctly. I eventually gave up, questioning whether English was even her first language! And that reminds me of yesterday's incident in the lift of the Riad. We had just arrived and the lass in reception explained that there were 3 residences joined and it was a bit of a maze on different levels. As we went into the small lift, we were instantly in awe of the full mirror on the back wall, and the 3 other sides covered in beautiful mosaics. These sides were also doors, which indicated that depending on which of the 3 floors you stopped at, which of the doors would open. So, inside the lift, as we made our way to the first floor, the lass asks us which door do we think will open. Julie replies, "the one at the back". That ofcourse was the mirror... Duh... Now back to Fes... Very interesting architecture. Because the site is UNESCO listed, it is being restored and it can certainly do with the facelift as much of it was very run down and dirty. Nice photo opp at the nearby Royal Palace gates. There are actually 7 gates, all along the front and our photo is in front of one of the smallest end gates.

Had to get some cash out of an ATM for tips as it is expected much of the time. Then to the old fort for lovely views over the city. We then head to a pottery factory and to see how the lovely zellij tiles are made. They are excellent examples of Arabo-Andalusian decor and are also used in the manifacture of the famous tangines. Said showed us around the complex, first stopping to check out the grey clay used for their best products. When he asked us if we knew what the grey stuff was, Julie proudly announced that it was clay. She told us that she had done ceramics (40 years ago). Being so thrilled with herself over finally getting something right, when we were then shown the firing kilns and some of the raw products, Julie announced that she knew about this process as she had done pottery. Mind you that was apparently at school so her explanations were somewhat rusty and amusing! The fellow working the old pottery wheel was a master at it.I was amazed at the precision he had in creating the same tagine base over and over again from the one lump of clay on the wheel. Each one was a perfect replica of the next. Everywhere we were shown, had masters working on their specific tasks. I was thoroughly impressed with the workmanship and designs. The creation of each separate and often tiny mosaic tile was fascinating.

At this point Julie tells us that she has done mosaics, albeit self taught by breaking crockery! At this point I have wandered off which turned into an expensive digression. Fell in love with a water fountain and with much encouragement from Julie, am now about to become the proud owner of a mosaic water fountain that should arrive home in about 2 months.

Now back to my epistle... Note to self. Don't take Julie shopping with me again as she offers no wise advice about " Do I want it or do I need it" But instead keeps encouraging me to buy whatever takes my fancy and worry about the cost later... We then had a panoramic view of Fes from the old fort. It certainly is high density with about half a million people crammed in the medina. Next stop was the Medina which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It really was a step back in time to the Middle Ages with the visit to Fes El Bali, the world's largest medieval medina city and the cultural heart of Morocco. We explored most of the 9000 narrow lanes, alleys and souks that make up the labyrinth of the city's old quarter. Julie says we walked 6 km, but it felt like a lot more. At one stage a woman passed me and as I had jeard her speaking French, I said Bon Jour to her. Julie stops me and asks if I speak French, because she speaks French. Apparently my 3 years of high scool French pales into insignificance against her 6 weeks, once a week lessons...

Fes was a renowned centre of medieval learning and at its heart lays the Karaouine, one of the oldest still functioning universities in the world. In the neighbouring building is the Attarine Medersa (Koranic college) which is now closed, but remains a jewel of Hispanic Moorish architrcture built in the 14th century. The nearby Fondiuq (Caravanserai) has now been converted into a museum of carpentry artefacts. At one of the tiny stalls, a man had a pet rooster tethered alongside him. Julie asked him if he gets any eggs from it. I kid you not, if it hadn't been so crowded and dirty, I would have literally rolled around on the floor laughing. We truly wandered through the labyrinth, changing directions so many times we truly were lost after the second turn. Eventually Ahmed got us to a spot for lunch where we could either have a street trader grilled meat concoction or a sit down meal in a little restaurant so guess where we chose? The set menu doesn't appear to change from place to place and is ideal for tourists. We are certainly getting our fill of tangine cooked meals and the Mediterranean diet.

After lunch we funally got our way out into the open and headed to the leather manufacturing tannery.The smell was an assault onthe senses but we were offered to place under our noses. Julie had her spring permanently planted up her nose! We weren't interested in buying anything from the extensive shop which had every conceivable colour and style of any leather product.

Ahmed then took us to a carpet place where it was explained that it is a women's cooperative for the women to share their skills at carpet making. We sat with one eoman who was usung an 8 twist knot on every strand. She had no pattern to follow, just what was in her head and it was amazing to watch. We then got the hard sell spiel from the salesman. No carpets interested either of us so his pressure to buy was wasted on us. Probably Ahmed was't happy either as there would be no commission kick back to him! Last stop for the day was a view from the opposite lookout where we were in the morning. This is the same fort we see from our Riad window.

Back to our hotel and as we weren't at all hungry after such a late big lunch, we decided togo for a drink on the terrace. Julie magnanimously offered to buy our drinks so I had Daiquiri tea (100 dirham) and Julie had a glass of Rose (160 dirham). When we went to leave she paid on credit card. Getting back to the room she checked her card balance and she had been charged 26 cents Aussie, instead of at least $30. She reckons it's my shout next... Back to our room for what we hope will be a good night's sleep.